Steve and Di Thomas weren’t sure how fast elephants can run, but they were certain that they could not outride them uphill, as the herd headed towards them during the 2015 Laikipia XC.
There must have been about a hundred elephants moving through the African bush about 500m to our left. We just kept peddling until we crested the rise and with some relief freewheeled through a herd of less intimidating zebra and some skittish Thomson’s gazelles. This was no ordinary mountain bike stage race, no ordinary game viewing experience. We had signed up for the race to visit Kenya and ride our bicycles and then go game viewing in the Masai Mara, but certainly did not expect to do both at the same time, at such close range and so freely (the field was really small and there were no rangers with guns, bear bangers or the like – just the two of us, alone much of the time with the animals and the African bush). What an incredible and totally unexpected privilege!
The Laikipia XC mountain bike stage race takes place in July, on the equator, on the slopes of Mount Kenya at altitudes between 1 900m and 3 500m above sea level, so the temperatures are moderate and perfect for mountain biking.
Stage 1 – 40km with 833m of climbing
Stage 1 headed uphill onto the lower slopes of Mt. Kenya into indigenous forest on cattle tracks, dual track and forestry roads and finished on an old airstrip, which hosted the race village with ample hot showers and toilets, a dining tent, ‘chill out’ fire and Alex, definitely the best masseuse this side of the Mediterranean. There were some zebra in the distance and a few warthogs running around behind the tents and then a small herd of elephants strolled across the runway and headed into the forest knocking down trees as they went. A pack of hyenas could be heard laughing nearby. There was no need for DSTV.
Stage 2 – 70km with 1 074m of climbing
Stage 2 barrelled back down the mountain and onto the plains, where the race village was set under classic yellow barked Fever Trees (Acacia Xanthophloea) on a grassy patch overlooking a waterhole and river – an idyllic spot for the next three nights in the Borana conservancy. We traded war stories around the fire after a day of great trails, a few distant sightings of elephants, plenty of zebra and a dam full of flamingos. We were lulled to sleep by the sounds of a lion roaring in the bush nearby (odd how snoring is bothersome, but roaring is not…)
Stage 3 – 77km with 1 659m of climbing
Stage 3 was the day of the big three, rhino and buffalo, thankfully at a distance and the massive herd of elephants, not to mention the 20 or so reticulated giraffes, zebra and herds of eland and other antelope. We were cautioned about lions but assured that they were not in our path and indeed they were not.
Stage 4 – 92km with 1 659m of climbing
Stage 4 was a monster 15km descent into the dry northern plains and then an equally monstrous climb back out. The surface on the way down was very gnarly jeep track, rideable at speed but if you had more speed than skill you could seriously see your gat. The climb was amongst the hardest we’ve ever encountered, but the views across the plains below made every grinding pedal stroke worthwhile.
Stage 5 – 89km with 2 238m of climbing
Stage 5 looked tough starting at 1 950m & going up to 3 000m and the adrenaline kicked in from the get go as Helen, the organiser, informed us on the start line that lions and rhino had passed by in the early hours and were not far from our route – “not to worry, though, we’ll send the guys out on motor bikes to clear the track and ensure that they won’t be any trouble. Oh, and a hyena raided the kitchen tent last night and polished off the cheesecake…”!! Oddly enough I was more scared of flying around a corner and landing between the legs of an ele or worse still, a buffalo, as there were lots of fast flowing trails through thick African bush and I spotted a number of large, hot steaming turds. On one occasion I spooked a kudu who suddenly took off and I’m sure I almost snapped a chain…
Stage 6 – 40km with 858m of climbing
Stage 6 was a short, fast ride through the forests and finished on the equator at the Five Star Mt. Kenya Safari Club. We were scheduled to head back to Nairobi directly after the finish, but took one look at this amazing hotel and checked in for the night – Spectacular luxury to end off an extraordinary event!
Just as the Lewa marathon in Laikipia is rated one of the top ten marathons to run in your life because of the wildlife, we believe that the Laikipia XC MTB race should rank similarly for the same reason. It is fantastic riding, not groomed but naturally interesting and challenging and the wildlife experience from the seat of your mountain bike is unique and unrivalled anywhere on the planet.
We travelled to Kenya mainly to tick Hot Air Ballooning over the Mara River off the bucket list and ended up adding Laikipia XC MTB to our list of all-time favourite rides – And the ballooning was cool too. Whoopee.
Laikipia XC
The Laikipia XC will take place from the 12th to the 17th of July 2016. You can find out more at www.laikipiamtbchallenge.com or follow the race on Twitter: @LaikipiaXC.
Bio:
Steve and Di Thomas are the founders of the Daytrippers Bicycle Tour Company. They have spent the last 25 years riding bikes and creating experiences for others who love riding bikes. They eat and sleep cycling. Follow them on Twitter: @DaytrippersSA